France meets Cambodia on the menu at this madly popular spot, 4 blocks from Kenmore Square and decorated with lots of pachyderms. The menu is French on one side and Cambodian on the other, but the boundary is quite porous. Many Cambodian dishes have part-French names, such as poulet à la citronelle (chicken sautéed with lemongrass) and mee siem, a tangle of rice noodles, sliced omelet, tofu, chicken, and picture-perfect vegetables. My mouth is still burning from loc lac, fork-tender beef cubes in addictively spicy sauce. On the French side, you'll find poulet rôti (roasted chicken) and top-notch steak frites. Many dishes are available with tofu substituted for animal protein. The pleasant staff members will help if you need guidance. Ask to be seated in the plant-filled front room, which is less noisy than the main dining room and has a view of the street. Tip: Sunday brunch, which includes the prettiest omelets I've ever seen, is worth checking out.