The glass front wall of Piccola Venezia ("little Venice") shows off the exposed-brick dining room, decorated with photos and posters and filled with happy locals and out-of-towners. Portions are large, and the homey food tends to be heavy on red sauce. You might begin with the appetizer sampler, an artery-clogging delight featuring fried calamari, garlic bread with cheese, mozzarella sticks, and sautéed shrimp; a more traditional starter is tasty pasta e fagioli (bean and pasta soup). Then dig into spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmigiana, eggplant rolatini, or grilled pork chops with vinegar peppers. This is a good place to try traditional Italian-American favorites such as polenta (home-style, not the yuppie croutons available at so many other places) and baccala (reconstituted salt cod).