One of Boston's most acclaimed restaurants sits in the shadow of the State House, an area better known for politicians' pubs than for fine dining. Legislators must make room for foodies here, thanks to chef-owner Barbara Lynch's flair for strong flavors and superb pasta. To start, try beet salad -- an upright cylinder of shredded vegetables atop blue cheese, surrounded by greens (always on the menu because the regulars mutiny when it isn't) -- or oysters on the half shell with unusually tasty mignonette sauce. Move on to venison loin en croûte with shallot chutney, yellowfin tuna with Maine crab salad, or a sampler of those famous pastas. For dessert, the chocolate ganache cake is worth every calorie. My only complaint is that the austere but comfortable space can get quite loud. The cafe area near the front door is even noisier, but the smaller plates of more casual food are equally appetizing.