Tucked away near South Station, this delightful place is worth seeking out; Bostonians have found their way here for over a decade. The bar in the high-ceilinged, brick-walled space serves a great selection of wine, available by the bottle, the glass, and the 2-ounce "taste." The efficient staff will guide you to a good accompaniment for the delicious food. Salads are excellent, lightly dressed and garden fresh, and main courses are hearty and filling but not heavy. Crispy duck breast with Savoy cabbage and potato gratin was a gratifying combination of textures and flavors, and I'd come back just for the pan-seared wild striped bass. For dessert, try not to fight over warm chocolate cake. A popular business-lunch destination, Les Zygomates has a chic, romantic atmosphere at night, when live jazz (in its own dining room) helps set the mood.

Up the street and under the same management, Sorriso Trattoria (tel. 617/259-1560; www.sorrisoboston.com), 107 South St., serves sophisticated country Italian cuisine, including brick-oven pizza. It's open for lunch weekdays and dinner Monday through Saturday. And the name is a clever tribute to the original restaurant: Les zygomates is French for the muscles that make you smile; sorriso is Italian for "smile."