The famous L'etoile has moved out of the Charlotte Inn and several blocks away to the building that formerly housed the Tuscany Inn. Chef Michael Brisson is still in charge here and he creates an ever-evolving menu devoted to local produce and seafood, along with delicacies flown in from the four corners of the earth. Sevruga usually makes an appearance -- perhaps as a garnish for chilled leek soup. An étouffée of lobster with lobster, cognac, and chervil sauce might come with littlenecks, bay scallops, and roasted corn fritters; or roasted pheasant breast in a cider, apple-brandy, and thyme sauce may be accompanied by apple, sun-dried cherry, and mascarpone-filled wild-rice crepes.