This is the place that put the South End on Boston's culinary map, a pioneering restaurant (it opened in 1987) that's both classic and contemporary. It's one of the most beloved special-occasion restaurants in the Boston area yet somehow manages to feel like a neighborhood hangout, mostly thanks to the huge volume of repeat business. The husband-and-wife team of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley presides over a long dining room with lots of soft surfaces that absorb sound, so you can see but not quite hear what's going on at the tables around you. That means you'll have to quiz one of the courteous servers about the dish that just passed by -- perhaps a starter of rabbit pâté or smoked-trout salad with beets.

The menu changes seasonally and offers about a dozen carefully considered entrees noted for their emphasis on local ingredients and classic preparations. I find the famed roast chicken with garlic, lemon, and parsley a bit tame, but cassoulet with pork, duck confit, and garlic sausage is a gorgeously executed combination of flavors and textures. This kitchen also has a way with seafood; a memorable dish of peppered tuna with spicy cauliflower and fennel warmed a recent chilly night. The wine list is excellent, and there's seasonal outdoor seating.