For many, this is the quintessential Newport restaurant. The picturesque 19th-century structure was moved to the wharf from America's Cup Avenue in the 1970s. Most of its several levels are open to the air in summer and glassed-in in winter. Several bars lubricate conversation. Up on the formal third floor, the staff sautés your lobster out of the shell while you put away such appetizers as stuffed zucchini blossoms, perhaps moving on to a rack of lamb persillade with minted tarragon glaze. If that seems too rich, spare the walk upstairs and stop in at the Grille, which wraps around a fireplace and center bar. The main floor, called the Candy Store, serves full meals, snacks, sandwiches, and drinks, and below that is the Boom Boom Room, with dancing on weekends from 9pm to whenever. All levels have access to the wide choices of a big wine cellar. No cellphones in the dining areas.