Lenox's most popular eating place delivers fanciful combinations that please the eye and pique the taste buds. Menus change with the seasons, but past options have included fried oysters with a lemony rémoulade sauce, seared duck breast chinois, and sake-soy marinated shrimp with crabmeat wontons. Lunch is a busy time here, with gumbo and black-bean quesadillas and crab-cake sandwiches among the favorites. The decor is rudimentary, the service friendly but rushed. A large deck fills up whenever the weather allows.