The setting -- 40 oceanfront acres on a near-island -- is the overwhelming attraction of this, the highest profile resort in Newport. But after roof-to-foundation renovations of the 1874 Victorian mansion and its outbuildings, even a visit in foul weather is a treat. There is no more enticing ritual in Newport than taking to one of the Adirondack chairs that dots the slope from the inn down toward the water, cocktail in hand, watching boats returning from the fishing grounds while the sun turns the water to gold. Best values are the Harbor Houses, which have been gutted and overhauled, with new furniture, Jacuzzis, and porches overlooking the bay. The handsome taproom offers a riveting view (shared by the dining areas, deck, and many of the bedrooms) of sailing ships on Narragansett Bay.

Breakfast buffets are expansive, and dinners in the dining rooms of the nameless restaurant and on the terrace are among the most accomplished in Newport. The kitchen applies Asian and European notions and techniques to largely regional ingredients, the menu delineating provenance, as with Hudson Valley duck, Farmstead artisan cheese, and Georges Bank scallops. They braise short ribs in Newport Storm Porter. Venturesome diners with few food prejudices might choose the "Chef's Inspiration" menu -- three surprise courses created by the chefs. Service is wise and anticipatory. The Inn is completely nonsmoking, and pagers and cellphones are verboten in the restaurant.