Zinc leapt to the upper echelon of Berkshires dining nearly as soon as it opened. For one thing, it is the best-looking restaurant in town, with its eponymous zinc bar, faux tin ceiling, flowers, and lacquered woods, tile floor, and butcher paper over white tablecloths. Setting aside, the cuisine and wine list adhere with some rigor to the French-bistro canon. Menus have listed such appetizers as phyllo-wrapped spring rolls incorporating beefy, rare knobs of tuna, and continuing with such possibilities as sautéed halibut with saffron aioli, rack of lamb with artichokes and pistachio coulis, and honey glazed duck breast with white-bean cassoulet. A remarkable 24 wines are available by the glass, most of which go quite well with the five-cheese tasting ($15).